Follow Katie in Paris
Stohrer
Stohrer is Paris’ oldest patisserie, and was the perfect spot to kick of an artistic day in the City of Love. Maybe its a stretch, but I think interior design and pastry are both artforms and a nice way to incorporate my theme into breakfast.
With interiors designed by Paul Baudry - known for designing the incredible Paris Garnier opera house - you are greeted by an incredible gilded ceiling, gorgeous chandeliers, and beautiful displays of pastries. Opened in 1730 by Nicolas Stohrer, pastry chef to Louis XV of France, his fine traditions are upheld to this day.
We kept it simple and went for the plain croissant, and the pain au chocolat. They were fantastic, with the perfect amount of crispy shell and butter insides. I had also originally planned to try the Rum Baba, as this is the birthplace of the boozy dish, but we were simply too early for it. It’s almost like people don’t want to start there day with an alcohol soaked cake?? Anyway, in case you missed it, we did end up trying it on Benny’s Rogue day, for better or for worse…
Watercolour Class in Luxembourg Gardens
I am a terrible visual artist. I have poor dexterity and no eye for perspective. But why would I let that get in the way of an artistic day in Paris?? Luckily, Kristina’s Morning Painting in Paris class advertises itself as beginner-friendly, so I went ahead and signed us up. Meeting just outside the Odeon Theatre, Kristina took us and our classmates (a lovely family of 3) over to the Luxemboug Gardens. On the way, she shared some of Paris’ wonderful history of artists, particularly those who found inspiration on those very gardens. This morning, we were set to join the likes of Monet & Van Gogh - in theory at least.
The weather was absolutely superb for painting in the park. Kristina gave us all the tools we would need, and gave us a lesson in selecting your scene to paint. We also learned the basics of starting your painting, and how to correct errors on the parchment. We then got to take our masterpieces(?) home as a wonderful keepsake. I HIGHLY recommend this class - no matter your skill level in painting, this is a lot of fun, and a beautiful way to meet locals and fellow tourists.
Les Deux Magot
The next artistic medium of chose for the day was writing. Paris has produced some of the world’s greatest writers, and with Benny being a writer himself, I was sure he’d appreciate this approach. Les Deux Magot has not only played host to writers such as Ernest Hemingway & Julia Child, but also hosts their own annual literary awards.
The Deux Magots literary prize (Prix des Deux Magots) has been running since 1933, and acknowledges Paris’ less commercial works of literature. The most recent winner was Louis-Henri de La Rochefoucauld for his work, Châteaux de Sable, a humorous and reflective story based during the French Revolution.
For lunch I had the club sandwich, and of course Benny couldn’t go past the Croque-Madame from Deux Magots with ham. With lovely local beer and wine to wash it down, this was a delicious lunch in a quintessentially Parisian setting. It is worth noting that while the staff were very friendly to us, we did see a waiter be rude to a French customer who wasn’t satisfied with what they were served - make of that what you will.
Bouquinistes of Paris
Still on the writing train, we took a post-lunch stroll through the Bouquinistes of Paris. These stalls line a stretch of the Seine near the Latin Quarter, guiding you to the still-closed Notre Dame Cathedral. They are an attraction and fascinating piece of history in themselves, dating back to the 16th century and now being a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
After centuries of trading and turmoil, with vendors facing barriers such as censorship and the rise of television, Paris is left with 240 bouquinistes selling over 300,000 second-hand books out of 900 green boxes. They are still held to the same trading rules as they have been for hundreds of years, only operating from sunrise to sunset. These days many of the stalls also sell postcards, stamps, records, and other knick-knacks, making it perfect for window shoppers and souvenir collectors alike.
Stravinsky Fountain (Failed Plan)
Occasionally, my plans do not work out. We saw it with the Lavazza Flagship Store in Milan and, spoiler alert, this isn’t the last time we’ll see it in this series. Nevertheless, I still recommend making time during your stay in Paris to check out the Stravinsky Fountain.
This massive piece of public art check off two more forms of art - sculpting, and music. The Stravinsky Fountain was designed by designed by the artists Jean Tinguely and Niki de Saint Phalle in 1983, in tribute to Russian composer Igor Stravinsky. With 16 individual sculptures representing different musical pieces, ordinarily this fountain spurts water and entertains pedestrians in the heart of Beaubourg.
Le Procope
Le Procope claims to be Paris’ oldest café. It is an extravagant two-story restaurant with original decors, suited waitstaff, and an impressive collection French artefacts including one of Napoleon’s hats. This is one restaurant you absolutely want to book - we saw families turned away even at the early dinner seating. It comes in at mid-range pricing but feels like you’re dining among the elite, and the staff treat you as such.
We both decided to start with the Parisian-Style French Onion Soup - because, when in Rome/Paris. It was exactly what you would hope for. Hot, cheesy, and bitey. 10/10. Do recommend. For mains, we both went for rustic traditional cuisine. I went for the Braised Beef Cheek with rigatoni & PDO Parmesan cheese. This was brought out in the pot and served straight onto my plate, whilst the waiter made very friendly conversation with us. Benny went for the Traditional Ivre de Julienas Coq au Vin, because thanks to The Inbetweeners, he struggles to go past it on a menu. Both of these dishes were delicious, homely, and cooked with love. If you’re looking for a nice meal in a beautiful Parisian institution, Le Procope is certainly worth the money.
I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again - I believe Paris best going Rogue. Apart from any major attractions you want to see, or famous restaurants you want to dine in, the best parts of the city will present themselves to you if you just set out on foot with an open mind. And a big appetite, ideally.
