Cologne After Hours
After Hours is the Planned vs Rogue series where Katie brings you their favourite things the team did when the cameras weren’t rolling.
Wirtshaus Spitz
Our first meal in Germany was enjoyed at Wirtshaus Spitz, across the road from our Air BnB.
One of the most important things you need to know about Cologne (if you’re anything like us), is that Kolsch is King here. Numerous breweries throughout the city brew their own version of this delicious ale, and take up residency in non-brewing venues the city over. Wirtshaus Spitz, also known as the Spitz Inn, claims to be the oldest tavern in the northern CBD. Here they serve Gaffel kolsch, one of the most famous and popular brands in the city.
Our Air BnB was just across the road from Wirtshaus Spitz, and as it was the first place we came by serving the famous kolsch in the tiny glasses, we decided to have dinner and drinks here. We’d been warned that German pub servings were very generous, so we opted to share the Weiner Schnitzel (I’m afraid we are too immature to look past it on a menu).
Round 2 at Wirsthaus Spitz.
This pub was close to perfect in our opinion, and we returned for our final dinner in Cologne. The Köbes (Kolsch waiter) that served us on both occasions was pleasant but not overly so, the kolsch was delicious and routinely replaced, and the meals were delicious. It is also a way out of the CBD, so you’re mixing with locals. We met a lovely local couple who found it very odd that we had chosen to travel Cologne largely due to the beer, but with beer this good, how could we not??
Eating Locally & Seasonally
Zucchini tart from EPI Boulangerie Patisserie.
By now you’ve probably noticed how much we love going to local delis, bakeries and the like. Most of Europe is just so rich in diverse culinary arts and we can’t resist indulging every opportunity we get. When we were in Cologne, it was peak asparagus season. The beautiful boulangerie just downstairs from us had so many fine pastries, but we simply had to try the asparagus tart. It did not disappoint. I can not recommend enough buying season ingredients and meals from small, local businesses.
One of our favourite comfort foods from Namaste Restaurant.
On one evening when we weren’t feeling particularly adventurous, we got takeaway from Namaste, an Indian restaurant about 30 minutes away from our place on foot. Curry & biriyani will always bring me comfort and joy, and this was no exception. Friendly service and good prices were complimented by the delicious food, and the portions were typically German and kept us going for a few days.
Fruh Am Dom
Benny enjoying one of many tiny beers at Fruh Am Dom.
FRÜH is another one of Cologne’s most popular kolsch beers, and a stop into the brauhaus leaves you with no confusion as to why. Living up to the ale’s crisp, refreshing reputation, you can easily knock these back as they are routinely replaced before your eyes. The staff here are also incredibly welcoming and friendly, and won’t hassle you for a tip!
Benny braving the blutwurst.
We also decided to grab a bite to eat here. Benny braved the ‘Koln Caviar’, otherwise known as blutwurst or blood sausage. Unlike the fried black pudding that is commonly found in numerous Europe cuisines, this is a slightly more intimidating version in which the sausage is smoked and served cold and hard with butter, onion and mustard to go on a bread roll. Not wanting to deprive Benny of this delicacy, I opted for one single large meatball. That was pretty good. Overall, this brauhaus provides great beer, authentic food, and a fun experience with the staff, and I highly recommend it to anyone visiting Cologne.
Exploring on Foot
Eigelstein City Gate
Cologne is a relatively small and flat city, making it perfect for exploring on foot. Between the squares and alleys of the historic centre, the banks of the spree, and the medieval remains throughout the city, there is plenty to keep you excited as you stroll about. The Eigelstein City Gate is one of three remaining gates of the medieval city wall, which dates back to 12th century. You can find it conveniently smack back in the middle of Ebertplatz, just 1km north of the city centre. Given the central location, you’re quite likely to just stumble across this impressive piece of history just going about your day.
Aerial view of the city from the Koln Triange.
The The Hohenzollern Bridge crosses the Rhine River and is a popular pedestrian scenic route. It takes about 15 minutes to cross at a leisurely pace, and is covered in ‘love locks’ because it’s a bridge in Europe and that’s what we do now. Other highlights of Cologne on foot are (of course) Koln Dom, Theodor-Heuss Park, and the Agnes-Viertel with the beautiful St. Agnus church.
Day Trip to Düsseldorf
One of Düsseldorf’s many town squares.
Technically we did visit Düsseldorf on a filming day, but very little of it was actually shot and used for the episode. We spent several hours exploring and enjoying the smaller city just 30 mins by train out of Cologne, and I highly recommend it as an easy day trip to see a different part of Germany.
Altbier is the signature brew of Düsseldorf.
With Altbier taking the place of Kolsch in Düsseldorf, the beautiful town squares are filled with brauhauses and cafes where you can enjoy the traditional brews and bar snacks of the region. After stuffing yourself, you can take a peaceful stroll along the river and even pop in to one of the many bars that line it for another bevvie or two.
Cologne really has something for everyone. Of course, it can be extremely touristy and crowded at times in certain locations, but it doesn’t take long to get off the beaten path and find local gems and the kind locals who are happy to share them with you.
